A royal feast in Tai Kwun: My first visit to Prince & The Peacock by Black Sheep Restaurants

I’ve long been a fan of Chef Palash Mitra’s cooking — the smokey tandoors of New Punjab Club and colonial flair of Rajasthan Rifles have both held my heart over the years. So when the opportunity came to experience his latest concept, Prince & The Peacock, tucked inside the opulent setting of The Magistracy in Tai Kwun, I knew I was in for something memorable.

This was my first time dining at Prince & The Peacock, and it felt like stepping into another world — one that celebrates the grandeur of India’s royal kitchens, yet isn’t afraid to play with bold, new ideas. The "Nawabs of Bengal" menu, crafted as a special seasonal tasting, offered a rare glimpse into lesser-known regional dishes, each one deeply rooted in history but elevated with modern technique.

We began with a round of starters served almost like Indian amuse-bouches: the Fruit Gol Guppa with a sweet-spiced burst, and Herring Kofta, a clever nod to Bengal's love affair with freshwater and coastal fish. The Pumpkin Tokri Chaat was a playful twist on street food, served in a crisp little basket and topped with tangy yoghurt and pomegranate. I especially loved the Betel Leaf Pakora, a delicate, herbaceous bite that felt both nostalgic and entirely new.

The Ghooghni Chaat arrived next - a comforting and textural dish of Bengal gram cooked street-style, but refined with crispy rice flakes, green mango, and tamarind. The Tamatar Kachori, a colorful spread of tangy tomatoes, green chillies, and Indian gooseberries, had a crisp bite that gave way to a riot of spice and citrus.

One of the standouts of the night was the Quail Pepper Roast - tiny quails dusted in peppercorns, with a fragrant halo of curry leaves, shallots, and quail eggs. It was bold, slightly wild, and deeply satisfying - and definitely something to eat with your hands. The Machli An Geethi, Indian Ocean mackerel laced with mustard, mint and coriander, served with curried yoghurt and green papaya chutney - felt like a study in balance. Bright, briny, and herbal all at once.

Bhapa Chingri, a beloved Bengali classic of steamed prawns in mustard and coconut, came next. This dish is like a love letter to Calcutta's coastal cuisine: silky, aromatic, and soulful. Tandoori Murgh Ka Soola was another highlight that we were lucky to try this time — tender three yellow chicken marinated with yellow chillies and cloves, roasted to smokey perfection in the tandoor. The local chicken was so tender they didn’t even give us knives — and none were needed. We paired it all with fluffy Butter Naan and flakey Paratha, and a refreshing Hara Salad to keep things light (but wow did that sauce really blow my mind).

Patialia Shahi Koftey, a luxurious vegetarian dish of soft paneer dumpling infused with royal cumin, sat in a velvety smooth sauce, and royal Mughal kitchens are brought vividly to life on the plate. And of course, no Indian meal is complete without Daal and Biryani. The Daal Moradabad, slow cooked yellow lentils with onions and red chillies, was comforting and perfectly seasoned - mopped up with roti. The Nalli Gosht Biryani was a showstopper — tender lamb shank and ribs buried in aged basmati rice, scented with mint and spice, and served under a pastry dome that trapped all the rich flavors and aromas inside.

Desserts were just as evocative. A trio of Mango, Banana and Jackfruit Ice Cream drew inspiration from ancient Tamil fruit blends — using jackfruits grown on a farm in Sai Kung. The Bhapa Doi - a steamed yoghurt flan, was as delicate as it was indulgent, and the Dates and Figs Kulfi added a satisfying finish.

It’s not often you get a dinner that so thoughtfully marries culinary anthropology with innovation. Prince & The Peacock is exactly that — a place where stories, regions, and royal kitchens are brought vividly to life on the plate.

Prince & The Peacock Address: 2/F, Central Magistracy, Tai Kwun, 1 Arbuthnot Rd, Central Open daily for dinner only

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