Six Senses Laamu Maldives with a 1 year old: bliss, or miss?

Stepping on to the powder-white sands of Olhuveli Island in Laamu Atoll in the Maldives, you're greeted with the sense of overwhelming tranquility that only comes when you know you're a world away from your routine. Now, what doesn't quite fit this pretty picture of peace is the high-pitched wailing coming from your jet-lagged 1-year-old, perched in the shade of a palm tree while trying to shovel handfuls of sand into his mouth.

Attempting luxury travel with a baby isn't for the faint-hearted. Behind a photo of me all dressed up and smiling with my little one at a sunset beach dinner is a fork that got flung full-tilt at a wine glass and cracked it; behind an #ootd mirror selfie is a baby that was, meanwhile, unbeknownst to me, rummaging through the pantry drawers, opening every sugar packet and emptying them on the floor. In fact, my Kindle is currently en route to Hong Kong from the resort at eye-watering DHL prices because my baby thought it would be cute to shove it deep between the headboard and mattress before we left.

There's no doubt about it, though — I would do it all over again in a heartbeat. Travelling with your baby is tough, but rewarding. It's a different kind of adventure from the days of just you and your partner — full of unexpected twists but, equally, moments that fill your heart. It doesn't hurt that the five-star resort we stayed at had a "GEM" (Guest Experience Maker) assigned to us, who catered to our every want and need throughout the entire trip, which — in the non-baby days — included things like Espresso Martinis sent to the room.

A few things you need to adjust in your travelling mentality to get the most out of your holiday with a baby:

You are no longer the main character of your holiday. Your baby is. Get ready for a camera roll filled with photos of your little one, and just a few good shots of you — if you even bother to try.

Surrender to the new pace. You won't be ticking off every item on a must-see list. You'll be spending time splashing in the shallow waters, pointing at crabs on the beach, and living life gloriously unhurried.

We only got into our groove towards the end of the trip, when we finally stopped trying to recreate our old travel habits and leaned fully into the baby-led flow of things. And honestly? That's when the real magic of Six Senses Laamu unfolded.

The service here was exceptional. Our butler — or GEM, as they call them — anticipated our needs before we even voiced them. One of the biggest perks? Babies eat for free at the resort. We were able to order adorable meals for Kenzo, like chicken and rice with vegetables, or fish and rice with vegetables, either delivered straight to our villa or enjoyed at one of the resort’s beautiful restaurants alongside our own meals. It sounds small, but it made such a huge difference — knowing we didn’t have to worry about baby meals gave us one less thing to think about.

For parents needing a breather, the resort has a kids' playroom and a dedicated outdoor playground, staffed with qualified carers. If you want to go snorkelling, indulge in a spa treatment, or just have a quiet meal without the background soundtrack of baby babble, you can even hire a carer to watch your child at your villa. We used this service twice while Kenzo was napping — one of the lovely nannies sat by the pool with the baby monitor while we snuck off for a reef snorkel and a rare, blissful date night.

The whole resort embodies the idea of "barefoot luxury." You’re encouraged to ditch your shoes the moment you arrive — a symbolic shedding of the outside world, and a practical nod to the pristine, soft sands that stretch across the island. There's a strong eco-luxury ethos here, too: an emphasis on reef conservation, sustainable living, and educational activities for older kids (Kenzo was a bit too young to join in, but I loved knowing he could grow into it on future trips). It’s the kind of place that makes you think a little differently about your impact on the world — without ever feeling preachy or overbearing.

One of the highlights of our stay — and honestly, of my entire life — was an impromptu jet ski adventure. Yes, we brought Kenzo along, snug in his tiny one-year-old life vest, clinging to us with wide-eyed excitement. We zipped out into the open ocean, the island shrinking into a sliver behind us, until we found ourselves surrounded by hundreds of dolphins. They leapt and danced around us, spinning and showing off as if putting on a private show. It was pure magic — the kind of breathtaking, heart-expanding moment that I’ll remember for the rest of my life. Sharing it with Kenzo made it all the more unforgettable.

Would I recommend it? Without hesitation. Is it different from the easy, breezy holidays of our pre-baby life? Absolutely. Is it messier, louder, and infinitely sweeter? Yes — and somehow, even better.

If you're curious, we stayed at Six Senses Laamu, a sanctuary nestled deep in the azure waters of the Indian Ocean, accessible only by a 65-minute seaplane ride from the city of Malé. We stayed at a hotel next to the airport for the first night, so that we could get some rest with Kenzo before going on the seaplane to our final destination. This was the right decision, as we could cut up the travel a bit and let it fully soak in that we had arrived to the Maldives!